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| Konstantin, c. 1875 |
1 June — Novorossiysk
In the morning dropped anchor at Novorossiysk bay. Around it are green mountains of monotonous, despondent appearance. The wharf suffers from a cruel "bora", especially in winter. In '48 in this roadstead during a "bora" storm the schooner Jet was sunk, went to the bottom under pressure of an ice crust. A very unimportant place for anchoring.
Wonderful weather, very warm. I was so happy at the thought that tomorrow I will be in Oreanda. I so love the view of Yalta and the Yalta roadstead, the smell of laurels, the steep scales of Ai-Petri. When I'm sad, it's nice to remember all this, especially the slope of the mountains to the sea outside Yalta, to make the heart feel better.
Novorossiysk gives the impression of a boring, empty city. A dirty church, unfortunate public garden, inconspicuous streets, nasty bridges, barracks, hospital, Greeks and some sort of Russians. I went with Obezyaninov to the mountain, accompanied by Colonel Nikiforaki. He, it seems, is a very businesslike, skilful and good person. He will surely get a lot from the engineers; Papa noticed that the cathedral is in a very obscene state, and asked who maintained it: the colonel answered, the engineers. Papa gave a stern dressing-down to the engineering department in the presence of the officers, instructing them to convey this to their superiors. Obezyaninov promised me to warn them in Tiflis that the engineers are really guilty—and that Nikifiraki didn't dole this out to them, but Papa himself noticed the dirty environment of the church.
3 June — Oreanda
After breakfast talked about "going through hard times". I gave comfort, saying that the world does not revolve around a wedge*, that people have lived and live and will go on living. Talked about the trial of Solovev, who committed an attempt on the Sovereign's life, and about his execution on 27 May.
4 June
Read about the state criminal Solovev and a description of his execution. It made a heavy impression on me, my head even started to hurt...
5 June — Oreanda
Last day here. Someday I will again see dear Crimea. God grant that I will then be at least no worse than I am now.
7 June — Nikolaev
At 11 in the morning was on the Bug at Spasskaya pier. Big meeting, admirals in uniform, flowers, gates, "Welcome" sign and so on—all as it should be... Set out with Kormanovsky to wander around the city. Were at the craft school; at a shelter for old men, women, and children, at an organised society; at a girls' boarding house and the Konstantin literacy school.
Then I went to the cemetery; wanted to visit the graves of my first teacher Elizaveta Ivanovna Iliny and my dear Gavrishev, who died of his wounds at Mama's infirmary. I prayed at his grave, asked him to pray to God to strengthen Mama's health and happiness. And it seemed to me, that Vladimir's soul was closer to me. —At home found out that our departure from here has been postponed until tomorrow. Can't express how upset this made me: I so hoped to finish with the tedious and boring inspections of all sorts of establishments and workshops. I gathered myself, prayed to God to calmly shift my trouble. I prayed also to Gavrishev. And the prayer helped and strengthened me wonderfully. I soon came to see and find some satisfaction in wandering the admiralty behind Papa, among the huge suite. A few times Papa got very angry over the idiotic and careless trimmings of a few objects of the Nikolaev port.
9 June — On the bank of the Bug
The whole time the weather remained wonderful, very sultry. Went with N. I. Kaznakov to a missile factory, and to a Bulgarian boarding house.
Bathed in the Bug. Was with Papa at the Panferova women's boarding house, the Alexandrovsky gymnasium and examined an excellent, still unfinished naval hospital.
At 4:45 left Nikolaev. Mama asked [me] on the telephone to plant jasmine and mignonette at Gavrishev's grave. I instructed this to Kaznakov, he promised to fulfil it. Mama asked [me] to plant exactly these flowers, because [her?] old governess saw the dead in her sleep, as though to reproach her for not taking to his grave mignonette and jasmine, his favourite flowers.
10 June
In Kharkiv Papa was met by the temporary governor-general Loris-Melikov. We were there with him, he told Papa about the current mood of Kharkiv society and about the socialist-revolutionary society. I liked Melikov's beliefs, though I have read little and know little to judge people's view on management. All my inner feelings rejoiced, seeing that in Kharkiv the governor-general doesn't take any steep, careless measures as leader.
11 June — Moscow
At 6 1/2 were in Moscow. By custom, went upon arrival to bow to the ikon of the Iveron Mother of God. The people awaited us around the wide porches and greeted with a welcoming "hoorah". Going into the chapel, made two earthly bows, venerated the ikon and again bowed to the earth, I heard the church singing, and on exiting my hearing was again deafened by the "hoorah" of the people. It was nice to feel the connection, seemingly non-existent between other peoples and their princes.
I experienced joy and a racing heart, seeing Red Square, Lobnoe Mesto, Vasily the Blessed, and then, when we removed our caps beneath the Spassky Gates, a man on a wagon, having removed his hat, also took the hat off [his] coachman.
We settled in at the Small Kremlin Palace. In every step here Papa has childhood memories. After lunch he took me to Alexandria, where every room also reminds him of childhood and his deceased sister Alexandra Nikolaevna (aunt Anchen), with whom he was especially friendly. Alexandria belonged to Count Orlov-Chesmensky and was bought by the deceased Sovereign for the Empress. We also went in the garden. Papa wanted to show me the pavilion where in his childhood he ran between lessons. Now Sergei Nikolaevich Solovev lives there, he's very ill, the doctors say that he has liver cancer.
We went to him and found him working on a manuscript of the history of Ekaterina. We live under one roof with the Chudovsky Monastery, where the relics of Saint Alexei lie.
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| Alexandria Palace, c. 1884 |
12 June
Prince Dolgorukov sent me T. V. Merlin who was under him—Count Uvarov is not here—and in the morning I went all around Moscow with Merlin. Today I went to the cathedrals: Uspensky, Archangel and Annunciation; venerated the relics and looked at the shrines and sites. Was at the palace, in the Facteted and Gold palaces, at the Terem, saw the inner churches...
We went with Papa to the anthropological exhibition, where the committee received us with breakfast. Then we viewed the exhibition. The archeological section was very captivating and interesting.
Had lunch at Dologrukov's; I sat beside Maria Nikolaevna Mansurova, the niece of the prince...
Yesterday were at the Maly Theatre, for a conservatory staging of "Evgeny Onegin" by Tchaikovsky, under the direction of N. G. Rubinstein. The role of Tatiana was beautifully played by the student Klimentova.
13 June
In the morning went with Merlin to the patriarchal sacristy and armoury palace. After breakfast was with Papa at the anthropological exhibition. From there again with Merlin went to the archive of the ministry of foreign affairs, where my nerves were tried to the extreme by the obsequiousness of the archive director Baron Buhler.
Before leaving we walked around the whole Kremlin wall; the weather was good, the view of Moscow was delightful—Had lunch again at Dolgoruky's.
14 June — Moscow
In the morning saw the Saviour on the Bor, Vasily the Blessed...Was in the women's Passion Monastery. There is an ikon of the Holy Mother of God, and the head of St. Anastasia. I came to the Hegumen. Want to send a lamp to the ikon in this monastery. Was at Merlin's, and no matter how much I refused and was embarrassed, I was obliged to take a gift from him of a few antique things from his own unparalleled collection...Were at the cathedral of the Saviour under construction; saw the raising of the bells. The cathedral's appearance, especially inside, is of amazing size and beauty.
Were at the house of S. M. Tretyakov, ["голови" is the whole clause here but I don't really know what he means by this], viewed his gallery. Were also at the museum of applied knowledge, then Soldatyonkov's gallery and the other Tretyakov's.
15 June — 1879 — Pavlovsk
Went with Papa to Tsarskoe. The Sovereign gave me a badge with his monogram, having said: "For you, in memory of the day when you were with me during Plevna". Papa told the Sovereign about all our travels, gave him a good impression of sailing on Popovka. Were at the Empress'; she was also interested in Popovka and in our travels generally.
...Here I heard that I will not go around the world this year. I am lost in assumptions, and give my fate into the hands of God.
19 June — Pavlovsk
Completely orphaned; now Pavel Egorovich has gone as well I remain alone, however I am not sorry, I'm fine alone.
In the morning went up to the storerooms, looked out the old and intricate in a pile of things; found a jacob armchair, and such a magnificent bureau. Among all the junk found a portrait of Peter the Great and the king of England Charles I. Took all this to my room. Mama helped me to arrange it, and it turned out very sweet.
22 June
Got up very late and thus wasn't happy with myself, head hurt a bit. Was late to a walk with Tatiana Mikhailovna.
After breakfast went to Tsarskoe. Met the Sovereign and Empress in a carriage; a Cossack on the box, in front, mounted Cossacks at the sides and behind, a few at a distance...in drozhki. I confess, it hurt to watch how the Tsar should travel as a prisoner—and then where? In Russia itself.
22 June [cont?]
Was at Elena Sheremeteva's; she lives in Tsarskoe at the Kreylitz Dacha[?]. We were very, very happy to see one another. On the path to hers I pondered my love and could not account for it: is it right that my inner self is meek and accustomed to all sorts of sorrow, or was the love not real? I remember how it hurt me, pained me, but I never felt jealous and even fell in love with Volodya. And now, though I really wished to be Elena's husband when it was possible, I don't feel despair...
About my sailing nothing more has been said, I don't know anything. I confess it's a rather unpleasant state...
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| Elena Sheremeteva, née Stroganova, c. 1870s |
23 June
In the morning read the biography of Grand Duchess Elena Pavlovna "In Old and New Russia".
It often occurs to me that my diary also, after sixty, seventy years, will appear in print somewhere: often, I confess, this makes me pay attention to the style and truthfulness of my notes...
Laroche came to me, professor of music theory at the Petersburg Conservatory. He's my friend, I happily showed him our palace; it never tires me and cannot bore me to talk for the hundredth time about various rooms, the porcelain, the bronze, the wallpaper and the old furniture, showing all these to charm guests...
24 June — Pavlovsk
Our family had lunch at the Tsar's; the Empress is extremely weak, her appearance is sickly and tired, she coughs harshly. Because of her weakness she near enough didn't participate in the conversation between the Sovereign and Papa, she, unmoving, sat in an armchair, often closing her eyes, and had the most pathetic appearance. The conversation was boring for our generation: about former commanders of the guard regiments, about the chiefs of sections of these regiments' manoeuvres. Must be confessed that these luncheons are not famous among we who are cheerful or at all curious.
Late evening at Pavlovsk I was at Tatiana Mikhailovna's and sat there until one in the morning. Told her about my life on Svetlana and then on the bank of the Danube, my childish attachment to Alexei Valentinovich and how these feelings changed to sincere and strong friendship.
Told her, per her request, about the Silistrian situation and how I received the George cross.
Returned home by the yard; loved the view of the palace in the light and bright June night, illuminated by the full moon.
25 June — Petersburg
If Nicholas I were alive, he would be 83 years old today. The family gathered for a panikhida in Petersburg, in the fortress.
28 June — Pavlovsk
Mama returned from Strelna extremely agitated. Entering the Tsarskoe Selo garden, at the big palace, not far from the arsenal, she was met by a Cossack on horseback. Behind him were harnessed a pair of English horses which the Sovereign ruled, leading a basket, in which apart from the Sovereign was Princess Dolgorukaya and the children. Pavel Egorovich [and] Countess Keller, accompanying Mama, noticed that the Sovereign looked extremely embarrassed.
It's understandable that Mama was extremely upset after such a meeting. I thanked God that I didn't go with Mama. The heart pours blood to see what our Tsar is doing, the Autocrat of all Russia, and even after the wonderful escape from the attempt on his life.
29 June
My fate now, it seems, has changed. Papa was at Kronstadt yesterday. He inspected the corvette Bayan, which has returned from distant sailing. The thought came to him to send Bayan around the world again in autumn with a guards' crew. He wants to send me with them. Here now everything has changed. I'm happy, however Petersburg winter frightens me, with divorces, festivities and so on...
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*Idiom essentially meaning 'not the be all end all'.
Translation by Lottie Bailey (@Medesikasta)
SOURCES:
Diary: К. Р.Дневники. Воспоминания. Стихи. Письма, ed. by Ella Matonina
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